Contemplating your next few days’ vacation as your colectivo drifts around the windy corners on its descent into Lake Atitlan, you may have noticed twin volcanic peaks rising from the lake’s southern shore. The higher of the two, Atitlan Volcano, is yet another mostly dormant volcano fit to explore for the wandering adventurer. As the highest point in the area, the blue of the lake water, the shimmering lights from the villages and the crests of volcanoes and mountains dotting the surrounding highlands, make for unparalleled views in all of Lake Atitlan.
If you didn’t get enough action hiking Acatenango volcano, then hiking and camping Lake Atitlan’s highest volcano is a surefire way to get that stunning landscape photo you were looking for. Here are some helpful tips to get you on your way.
Getting to the Trailhead
From Panajachel, you can take the lancha to the village of San Lucas Toliman for 20q. The village of San Lucas Toliman is sort of split in two, a lower section adjacent to the lake and a higher section connected by a single paved road. Once you get to the top of said paved road, you’ll see more housing and tiendas as a last option for your food/water needs. Just keep walking straight through to the trailhead.
How To Hike Volcán Atitlán
If you’re considering hiking Atitlan Volcano, then you may have dabbled in a few volcano hikes already. San Pedro Volcano is the easiest and most accessible of the three on the lake, with Toliman Volcano being another good day hike option. However, Atitlan Volcano is definitely for the more committed adventurer. A day hike is not viable unless you leave on the first boat in the morning and spend no time at the top. Why go all that way just to turn around when you get there?
The summit sits at 3,535m elevation and takes anywhere from 5-8 hours to reach. The beginning of the hike will take you through fields of corn, beans, avocado and coffee with wooded sections until, with a few hundred meters to go, you’ll reach a steep, pyroclastic cover at the top. To reiterate, it is dense forest and greenery all the way, pending a full-on hands and knees scramble to the summit with about 500 meters to go. The scree is not as loose as Acatenango volcano (no scree-skiing down), but the steepness is certainly there.
There are several camping spots all along the route and you can even camp in a little refuge on the summit. I made camp in a snug pyroclastic rock pile I found, using my tarp as a shelter (as well as a catch for condensation to add to my water bottle, less work is more!). Though the top of the mountain looks barren with no vegetation, don’t leave snacks out for any unwelcome visitors as I did.
I did this hike and camp solo, and only just ran into several friendly hikers near the top. I was alone almost the entire way. It was a welcome opportunity to enjoy nature and not have to worry about banditos. Mostly those folks cower by the base of San Pedro Volcano looking for unsuspecting tourists, not here in the bush. That said, I still wouldn’t bring that gold bracelet your grandma gifted you on your birthday.
The rocky summit is absolutely gorgeous, with no vegetation to block your 360-degree views. The volcano is dormant, but the smoking rocks (they are not hot) emit water vapor that make for an ethereal photo experience. I hiked up in November, so the sun rose between Acatenango and Fuego volcano, beautifully illuminating the silhouette of the massive eruptions of Fuego in the distance.
Timeline and What to Bring
The entire roundtrip excursion took me 24 hours exactly from Panajachel to the summit and back. I left at 11:30am from Pana, arrived at the trailhead around 12:30pm and made camp near the summit around 5:30pm just as the sun was setting. The hike down took half the time it did to go up. Bring two full meals (dinner and breakfast), two snacks and at least 3.5 liters of water as a minimum.
Conclusion
Between the erupting Fuego Volcano in the distance, the wild daises growing everywhere, the smoky vapors, and the beautiful shadow that the volcano casts at sunrise and sunset, the hike on Atitlan Volcano is out-of-this-world gorgeous. For the more daring adventurer looking for some quality time in the bush, this is a must-do on your trip to Lake Atitlan.
Notes:
Panajachel to San Lucas Toliman, 40q roundtrip. You can purchase any last-minute supplies here (water, tortillas, beans, ramen)
A 20-minute walk to the trailhead outside of San Lucas Toliman
Anywhere from 5-8 hours hiking to the summit, 2000m (6500ft) ascent to 3477m (11,400ft) elevation (on my GPS watch)
AT LEAST 3.5 liters of water and food for two meals and two snacks
Read HERE for San Pedro Hiking Guide and HERE for Toliman Volcano Hiking Guide