‘You can either buy clothes or buy pictures,’ she said. ‘It’s that simple. No one who is not very rich can do both. Pay no attention to your clothes and no attention at all to the mode, and buy your clothes for comfort and durability, and you will have the clothes money to buy pictures.’ – excerpt from ‘A Moveable Feast’ by Ernest Hemingway
Lake Atitlán is a beacon for creative spirits. I have met musicians, painters, chefs, photographers, and artisans, both local and foreign. The Lake has a beauty that speaks to man’s creativity, gently driving one to artistic pursuits hoping to capture the mystique of the lake. It is no wonder this is the home of many fine artists. Guatemalan art dates back thousands of years and it is still going strong. I recommend heading over to San Juan la Laguna for all your art needs.
Getting to San Juan
Your art buying journey will begin at the Tzanjuyú dock, if you’re parting from Panajachel. The boat ride will set you back 25Q apiece and take approximately thirty minutes. If you’re in another town the gentlemen at the dock will point you in the right direction. Here’s a comprehensive guide on how to move around Lake Atitlan by lancha. The water taxis will be stopping at other municipios on the way. It’s only fitting you should have to cross the lake, since this ancient body of water is a motif in the art you’ll find. Friendly tip: sit at the back or the middle of the boat because the thrashing of the vessel is most felt at the front. The best photo ops are at the front, however, so choose your seat at your own peril. After a sail across the water with a few splashes and beautiful views, you’ll go up the steps of the dock and begin your climb through San Juan’s ‘art district’.
What you’ll find
First, you’ll encounter the textiles. Traditional Guatemalan garb is known around the world for its intricate designs and colorful patterns. There are many variations to this traditional way of dress; what you will find is San Juan’s very own. These articles of clothing are woven with a technique that has been passed down through many generations. This is a prime opportunity to purchase functional art, since the clothes for sale are like the ones you see the locals wearing on the daily.
The Paintings
As you make your way up you’ll encounter the galleries. Once inside, you’ll see why San Juan painters are so famous. The attention to detail on their work is staggering. Close inspection of any painting will reveal the delicate strokes that compose the pictures. These paintings successfully capture the explosion of color present in Guatemala. Here’s something of interest: San Juan painters often exhibit in Antigua and the capital, where their prices are double or triple the ones you’ll find in San Juan galleries. The themes of the paintings are wide and varied, they aim to depict life on the lake: the people, their activities, their surroundings. San Juan paintings are known for their unique perspective, vista de pájaro, or bird’s eye view. It’s very likely that when you visit a gallery you’ll find the painters at work. Feel free to inquire about anything that catches your eye, they’re quick to put the brush down and shoot the breeze for a while.
Last thoughts
Take your time as you browse through the galleries and see what type of painting speaks to you. Vista de pájaro paintings are the most sought after, but you can also find breathtaking landscapes or quaint portraits. Make sure to get a real feel for the fabrics you see, they are carefully woven and dyed, and they make for unique statement pieces. There’s plenty to see in San Juan. I advise you to clear your schedule for the day and walk its charming streets. You’ll be surprised how faithful the paintings are to real life.
